Oh. My. Blog.

Encore... in Mexico

2007-03-13T21:37:00.001-05:00

I arrived back home, back in the best city in the world last Wednesday. Four days later I was en route to Mexico for work. Yes, for work. What kind of work, you ask?

Currently, I'm shooting video during Spring Break in Acapulco for Maxim magazine and their advertiser, Trojan condoms.

Now, some people have said to me, "Oh! You are sooo lucky. That must be, like, the best job in the WORLD! I am so jealous."

However, some people feel differently. A friend said exactly this to me: "Dear God. That sounds like my personal version of Hell."

Let me explain to you why the latter statement is correct and the former statement is a misconception.

Let's start with the operative words: Spring Break, Maxim Magazine, Trojan condoms.

As if I have to say more.

Thousands of drunk 18-22-year olds are everywhere. And I mean EVERYWHERE. The majority (98%) are loud and horny-- screaming from balconies and having sex in the pool. The other two percent are innocent people who wanted to go on a relaxing vacation and accidently booked a trip to Mexico during the wrong month of the year.

Understand, now, my job is to talk to these hammered college students. I need to put a microphone in their hand and prompt them to say audible sentences (plugging the Trojan brand) without slurring or falling over or trying to run into the pool with the microphone. For six hours each day, I race around the poolside and beach seeking out people coherent enough to talk to.

I have to admit, as a 28-year old woman, this is not fun. It borders on torture, actually. Especially since there is a beautiful beach that I could be lying on or a pool that I could be swimming in (though after what I witnessed happening in the pool, I would stick with the ocean).

The whole thing is bittersweet: I am in Mexico, yes. The weather is gorgeous and this is my job-- to be in a beautiful location and get paid. On the other hand, the content is... the content is... well, I'm just going to have to post the videos once they're edited. Words cannot explain the absolutely insane Spring Break scene.

P.S.A.: Dear parents, don't ever let your children go on a Spring Break vacaction to Mexico. Ever. I mean it.

A Day With Dad

2007-03-06T22:00:00.000-05:00

I hung out with my Dad today. Whenever my father the contractor says, "Hey, do you want to take a ride and run some errands?" I should know better by now to decline and just go to the beach. Why decline, you ask?

Well, as all of my sibling (and my brothers-in-law) can attest to, my Dad kidnaps people. It's not intentional, but he has this way of holding his voluntary passengers hostage.

When he says "a few errands" what he really means is we're stopping at three banks, checking on a half dozen real estate properties all over town, going to the dog groomer and stopping at the lumber year and the aluminum place.

As long as I can remember it's been like this. You never know where you're going to end up when you agree to get in the car with him.

Being hijacked isn't without its benefits, though. For example, oftentimes you can guilt my Dad into buying you stuff because he is, afterall, holding you captive. When we were little, he could quiet the entire station wagon with some Slurpees from 7-Eleven.

I passed on the Slupree today and instead opted for this sweet new beltbuckle at the local western store. Thanks, Dad. Yeehaw!

Home in the Dirty-Dirty (South)

2007-03-05T11:59:00.000-05:00

"Final Boarding Call for Flight No. 900"
After nearly missing our flight back to The States (Note to potential travelers to Buenos Aires: When they say leave three or four hours before your scheduled time of departure, they actually mean it), we arrived in Miami. First time on U.S. soil in over two months. I have to admit, I was excited to be home.

The Goodbye
After the nine-hour flight, it was about 6am in the morning and Mark and I both rented cars at the airport to get us to our destinations within Florida. Parting ways went something like this:

Me: "Ok, well..."
[hug]
Mark: "Have a good time with your family."
Me: "You, too. Drive safe."
Mark: "See you when you're back in New York."
Me: "Yep."
[turn around, each get in respective cars, drive away]

I guess after two months of being with someone for nearly 24-hours a day, there really isn't much you haven't already said.

I DID Learn Spanish!
Friday and Saturday were spent with my sister and brother-in-law in Miami. The last week of traveling was especially grueling (mentally and physically), so I thought a little pampering in South Florida would do me good.

[Cut to me entering the nail salon in downtown Miami]

Background: I was scheduled for a pedicure at 4pm, but arrived a bit early. I inquired to see if I could sneak in a manicure before my scheduled appointment. Simple enough, right?

So, I ask. In English.
They answer me. In Spanish.
I answer them. In Spanish.

It just flew outta my mouth! And they knew what I said! Well, sort of. It took about 10 minutes to get everything sorted, but we worked it out. I got my mani and pedi... and to use my freshly-learned Spanish. Tee!

What's In the Bag
The contents of my bag changed constantly throughout the trip. For example, it only took me two weeks to realize I didn't actually need those two extra pairs of shorts, a wifebeater in all three shades of blue or that second bathing suit. Also, I had a rule: If I bought something, I had to get rid of something. So, over the course of the 63 days, adjustments were made daily. Here are some new important additions to the bag:

- leather heels from Buenos Aires
- sweet green Nike kicks (also from BsAs)
- two Peruvian instruments (friends with children, these are for you)
- some trinkets from the witchcraft market in La Paz
- thr-- (... err) two Argentine malbecs
- bottle of olive oil from Mendoza
- an ugly (but lovable) long-sleeve orange shirt
- four pairs of jeans
- handful of new tops

I outright refused to do purchase any clothes for the winter season... because I am a badass like that. Although, I just peeked at the forecast and it looks like there will be flurries in New York the day I arrive. Ok, so I admit: not buying that leather jacket and getting those cute tanks instead probably wasn't the best way to rebel against the cold. Anyway...

Currently, I'm in Fort Pierce with the 'rents where I remain until Wednesday, when I head back up north to reality: work, cold and apartment-hunting.

(sigh)

However, I know as soon as I see the New York skyline, I'll get butterflies.
No matter how long I'm gone for-- two day or two months--
I get 'em everytime I see her.

Don't Cry For Me Argentina

2007-03-01T18:42:00.000-05:00

This morning we woke up to pouring rain. Like the streets-were-rivers kind of pouring rain. It didn't let up until about 2pm. It is the first time we've seen rain in Argentina. Coincidence? I think not. We head back to The States tonight and the city is upset. It's understandable.

Mark was all "It's raining so let's go to a museum!" Good enough idea, I thought. He headed there before me and we were going to meet up. Then, what I like to think was divine intervention occurred: I got into a cab and asked the driver to go to the MALBA Museum. He had no idea where it was. Neither did I. I mean, when you get into a cab and say "Take me to the Met," the drivers know where to go. I thought it'd work the same here. Guess not.

The funniest part is I sat in the (stopped) cab for the next 10 minutes trying to figure out with the driver what I was talking about. He didn't want me to leave. Next, we brought some poor unassuming girl standing on the street into the mix. She didn't know what I was talking about, so then she goes into the store we're parked next to and asks them. She comes back and says they don't know, but then she produces this little city map-book from her bag. Can't find it in there, either. (I suppose it would've helped if I knew that MALBA stood for Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, but whatever).

Regardless, this to me was a sign. A sign that today was not a museum day. It was, in fact, a SHOPPING DAY!

And shop I did.

I am sitting here with five bags full of stuff (presents, perhaps...?!) and now need to figure out how the hell I'm getting all of this on the plane. Speaking of, I need to go catch it...

Iguaz... WHO?! -- UPDATED

2007-03-01T02:12:00.000-05:00

Sixteen hours on a bus there.
Sixteen hours on a bus back.

Yeah, we rocked it.

Iguazu Falls swallows any other waterfall I've ever seen. I kinda had the urge to jump into it. I don't know why. It seemed like it'd be fun. But I didn't.

Words don't do this wonder justice. Heck, photos hardly do, but here are some to look at anyway. And if you want more info on the falls, consult my little friend Wiki.

Headed home tomorrow. As in flying to Florida. Two months. Over. After an nine-hour plane ride. Holy crap. Giddy-up!

*** See update below****
Garganta del Diablo
I have nothing to say except I love the clouds in this pic. Oh, the falls are nice, too. Fun fact: Garganta del Diablo means "throat of the devil."

***UPDATED*** [March 1, 5:55pm]
If you are wondering why this post looks all wonky, it's because... how do I say this? It was because it was written at like 2am in the morning after two margaritas, one Argentine version of a vodka gimlet and a beer Mark made me drink. I remember exiting a bar screaming the words to Bon Jovi's "Living on a Prayer." Evidently, Mark and I were the only two who knew any of the words. Woke up this morning with a horrible headache.

So, there you have it: I was busted blunking. Yes, I was blogging drunk. I am ashamed and have made a mental note to not attempt to upload pictures and/or update blog after two or more drinks.

The Barrios of Buenos Aires Breakdown

2007-02-25T12:22:00.000-05:00

RECOLETA
Visited the cemetary where Eva Peron and lots of other important dead people lie. The city sits only slightly above sea level, so entire cemetary a collection of mausoleums. Apparently it's a big deal to be buried here and it's expensive, too. The going rate for space is $10,000 per square meter-- that's why presidents, famous writers and generally rich people are boxed here.

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Pilar
It's on the north side of the Recoleta cemetary and is the second oldest church in Buenos Aires (1732). There is nothing terribly special about it. Well, perhaps there is, but it's just that I've seen so many damn churches over the past two months that I cannot tell the difference anymore.
Can I getta AMEN?!

PALERMO VIEJO
Shopping is the best here. Except nothing is open on Sunday and Saturday they open when they want. All the cool kids shop and eat and hang out here. I'm *almost* cool. That's why we're staying like 8 blocks away. :) Fun fact: Jorge Luis Borges and Che Guevara once lived in this area.

PALERMO SOHO
We are staying in this disarmingly comfortable neighborhood at a little family hotel called San Jorge (Charcas at Uriarte). It is clean, in an excellent location and like $16/night. Score! Ok, so it doesn't have air-conditioning and the shower is like freeform in the bathroom, but it has a bidet. Fancy! The hood definitely has a hipster-bohemian feel. I want to by an apartment here.

PLAZA DE MAYO
Plaza de Mayo is a powerful square. Currently, much of the Rosada Building (where the government operates) is covered in scaffolding, but it was easy to imagine Evita addressing the masses from its majestic balcony. It was equally as easy to imagine seas of people occupying the massive square in the middle of the city for a protest. Plaza de Mayo is like the mood ring of Buenos Aires. There you, can connect to how the city and its people feel.

LA BOCA
Settled by Italians from Genoa, this town was once the main port for BsAs. It's not anymore. Now, it's tourist central. You couldn't avoid tango souvenirs even if you tried. The building are painted with loud colors. The only thing that's louder is the tango music blasting at every corner. Ok, so I admit: I didn't jive with La Boca. Fun fact: This is where the massive Boca Juniors soccer stadium is. Its capacity is 57,000.

CONSTITUCION
The only piece of pertinant information I can offer is that this is where a bus and train station is. Instead, I'll offer you the food breakdown from the past couple of weeks:

Sushi - disappointing
Pizza - disappointing
Mexican - disappointing
Thai - none to be found
Steak - outrageous; same costs as pizza

TIGRE*
*This isn't actually a barrio of BsAs. It's another municipality of the Buenos Aires Province. It sits on the Paraná Delta so we took a cruise through the many canals. It was fine. The entire city is touristy and a bit generic, BUT you could find some really good shopping deals.

I Met Someone

2007-02-24T17:46:00.000-05:00

I have been here for only a week... and I am in love.

She is beautiful and strong and passionate,
She charms with mystery and seduction,
She moves in a way that consumes me.

I am smitten by Buenos Aires.

This city has a daily pace of Paris, a nightly energy of New York. It lacks the intimidation of Milan, but still has attitude. And though it doesn't have the zip or smarts of London, there is a consistent rhythm that is steady and rapid, but not overwhelmingly fast. The city moves effortlessly at the perfect pace.

Not unlike New York, BsAs is a walker's city. I set out in the morning with intention, but end up going with the flow and accidentally happen upon different neighborhoods and people and trains. It has a warm and fluid way of pulling you through its streets-- the way a stream pulls lost debris on course.

I enjoy the capital and absorbing its surroundings. Experiencing, wandering and having it teach me. Unlike previous places, I've always been geared towards tackling the town-- conquering it. Paris is the only other city I've let loosely control me, sway me. It inspires and leads me to an endless experience of... existing rather than doing:

To guiltlessly enjoy a cafe con leche in the middle of the day,
To watch people people-watch at the park,
To spend hours at dinner and eat great food,
To wander, to wonder.

All so simple and ordinary, yet easy to unconsciously and accidentally eliminate from every day.

This city is wise and seasoned and emanates experience. It possesses this undercurrent of passion that pulses through every sector of life.

Absolutely beautiful.
Wonderfully addictive.
Undeniably an affair.

Just please don't tell New York.

Swim Suits & Pedicures

2007-02-20T20:10:00.000-05:00

Swim Suit Shopping
I accidently left a couple of things behind in the truck when we were dropped off at the border after the Uyuni expedition. One of those things was my bathing suit. Not a big deal. I can always buy a new one, right?

Shopping in Argentina for a bathing suit goes a little something like this:

"That's cute, that one is kinda ugly. Oh, there's one I like! Where is my size..."
[flipping through the rack] "Size one. Ha, that's funny. Ok, size two and... oh there's a three. Size ZERO? What the...? Ok, maybe they're all out of sizes 5-10."
[enter store number 2]
"Black. Ok, that is perfect. A simple black bikini. Exactly what I'm looking for. Size... three. Size zero. Oh, come on! Am I in the children's section or something?"
[enter store numuber 3]
"There's a nice blue one. I like the stripes. [deep breath; looking with hopeful eyes at the tag] Great. They have it in size zero. That's just f*cking fantastic."
[enter store number 4]
"Wait... what is the point?" [exit store; go get ice cream]

Needless to say, I have yet to purchase a bathing suit.

Una Pedicuria, Por Favor?
After nearly two months of trekking around, my feet needed some love. So, I thought it wise to make an appointment for a pedicure in the morning. What better a way to kick things off in Buenos Aires?

I was hoping it would be up to par with my favorite spot in the East Village-- full with the whirlpooly foot bath, lots of colors to choose from and friendly service. Ok, first off, chica gives me attitude for making an appointment at 10am. Like, it was MY fault that was her shift. Then, she takes me upstairs to this dark and scary mezzanine area where I immediately spot a couple of roaches scattering.

WTF.

I suck it up, tell myself this is an "experience" and continue on. After I plop my feet into a bowl of hot water, Sassy McBitchface proceeded to put on rubber gloves and a surgical mask... and take out a scalpel and powertools. I kid you not.

Before I go any further, let me say this: my feet are NOT gnarly. Actually, I've been told by more than one pedicurist that they are "very nice." Sure, they were a bit dry and rough, but they were funk-free and decently pre-pedicured.

Girlfriend starts with the scalpel, which didn't alarm me. My fear was more in anticipation of her use of the exceedingly powerful-looking drill. She scraped, scrubbed, and clipped and then said something in Spanish to which I replied, "No, gracias." (Later, I come to realize she asked me if I wanted color.) Then, she started in with the drill.

I admit, watching her with the surgical mask and gloves and powerdrill working on my feet made me want to laugh. She really should've been performing surgery or welding something. Anyway, I stifled the urge to bust out in uncontrollable giggles for a solid five minutes. Luckily, the urge subsided and about 10 minutes later, the sanding and buffing was complete. My feet were like two sticks of buttah-- softer than my face, really.

It was the scariest, yet the most effective pedicure I've ever received. Unbelievable.

To recover from the traumatic pedicure experience, I made an appointment at Aqua Vita Medical Spa. Opted for the "anti-stress" day package. By the end of the four hours for pampering, I couldn't remember why my feet were so soft. Absolutely. Divine.

The Vines of Mendoza

2007-02-17T12:19:00.001-05:00

We arrived in Mendoza from Santiago (12 hours via bus) on Wednesday. No, Monday? Honestly, I don't even know anymore. I think it was Tuesday.

It's official: I am finally tired.

Tired of planning, tired of chasing buses, tired of lugging my bags everywhere. I am a bit burnt out. However, I am not tired, of drinking the wine here in Mendoza, Argentina.

So far, I've seen a total of four wineries (La Rural, Cavas de Don Arturo, La Azul, O.Fournier). The first two are hardly worthy of mention. The latter two... where do I start?
O.Fournier. This complex looked like a spaceship had landed in the middle of the some vineyards. This winery has the latest and most advanced technology in all of the valley, and probably all of Argentina. There were four other people on the tour, all of whom had visited plenty of wineries throughout the entire world, but everyone agreed: never had we seen anything like this before.

In order to be more gentle on the grapes and the juice, the designers did not want to use pumps to move the wine, thus they built a winery that utilizes gravity flow (with different levels) to move wine from tanks to barrels and such. There are four different floors-- top level is where the grapes arrive and are hand-selected; bottom level is the magnificant cellar. In between are the tanks. Some of the tanks are four floors high, themselves. It was all so scientific-- from the modern architecture to the linear design to the chemistry lab to the labcoat-wearing grape sorters-- it was otherworldy.
We had a five-course lunch in their dining room where sampled four different types of their selections. I gotta say, I was more impressed with set up of the entire place than with the wines. It was excellent, don't get me wrong, but you could almost taste the clinical precision with which it was made. Maybe it was just me. Regardless, I wanna taste the love and passion of the people who made it! This brings me to...

Bodega La Azul. This lil' gem of a winery has a capacity for about 56,000 liters (O.Fournier has the potential for 1.2 million, though they currently produce less than half of that). Azul is family-owned, has a couple of wine makers, tiny tanks and simple, yet tight traditional setup. It was quaint and charming... and their wine was qual-a-tee. It is amazing how alert your tastebuds are at 10:30am. I was so excited, I bought three bottles. It wasn't until later that I realized my backpack wasn't really made for accomodating wine.

This photo has nothing to do with anything regarding this post. It is an image of the church bell in San Pedro, Chile. This is in the town where Mark walked into the street sign in the middle of the sidewalk. I laughed. A lot.

Heading to the tasting room for a flight or two (fancy!), then jumping on an overnight bus to Buenos Aires (12-15 hrs) this evening for the final leg of the trip.

Where has the time gone?

Missing Gnome Report!

2007-02-17T11:23:00.000-05:00

Have you seen this gnome?

Date Missing: Feb. 9, 2007
Name: Gnomar
Height: 3.5 inches
Weight: 1.3 grams
Eyes: Blue
Race: Gnome
Sex: Male
D.O.B.: October, 2004

Last scene: On the bus crossing the Bolivia-Chile border (from the Uyuni desert to San Pedro de Atacama). He was wearing his favorite green jacket with his passport in the front pocket, blue pants, red hat and carrying two gray suitcases. This photo was taken the day before with his new friend Trey from Canada. If you see or locate him, please contact/email immediately!

Salar de Uyuni

2007-02-13T08:06:00.001-05:00

Ok, I am just going to come right out and say it: I am a little drunk whilst uploading these photographs. Mark and I just went to a completely amazing dinner at some wicked seafood place in Santiago and it ruled. Especially the savignon blanc. It was called Azul... something. The restaurant, not the wine.

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
It is 4,085 square miles, making it the largest salt lake in the world. Some 40,000 years ago, the area was part of Lake Minchin which was a big prehistoric lake. Ok, enough with the "smart" stuff I ripped straight from Wikipedia. Here is the scoop: It effin' rocked. I've never seen anything like it in my entire life. I was so big and white and went on forever.

Isla de los Pescados
Also known as Isla Incawasi, this is a little island is in the middle of the salar. See that cactus? It is over 1000 years old, yo. Mark coined the term "pre-old" on this trip* and I think it is appropriate for describing the cacti and coral rocks found here. It's a pretty wild sight because looking out, all you see is white ground and mountains in the distance.

*The Origin of "Pre-Old"
[setting: Museo Arqueológico R. P. Gustavo Le Paige, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile; shortly after breakfast]

Mark: "Hey, did you see those caveman tools over there?"
Me: "Yeah, I can't believe they used rocks and stuff. That shit is from, like 10,000 years ago or something."
Mark: "I know, right? It's really old-- like, PRE-old."

It was really funny when he said it, mainly because I don't think he realized what he said. Anyway, to the right is a photo of one of the many Dali-esque desert rocks.

Gratuitous Sunset Photo
This was taken on the trainride from Oruro to Uyuni. I had a window seat! Delighted with the charm of the entire train experience, I kept my window open. Why wouldn't I? It was lovely outside and the scenery, breathtaking. Three hours later: I am covered in dust and then notice everyone has their windows shut. Hmmm... why is it that I consistently miss loud clues?

Always Funny
What is it about the word "poop" that makes me laugh... every time? You could imagine the scramble to get the camera when the train was passing this by. Ok, so it is a stupid sign, but I felt obligated for the 11-year old boy in me to take and post this photo.

Laguna Verde
Found at the base of Licancabur volcano, Laugna Verde is... well, it looks fake, doesn't it? This was the last stop we made before heading to the the Bolivia-Chile border. The contrast of colors is remarkable and the vista is surreal.

Group Photo!
Three Canadians, two Scots, two American and a gnome get into a Jeep... Heheh. Here is Gnomar and the entire tour group. We had a fantastic lot of folks and quite a bonding experience through the Salar de Uyuni. Further details cannot be discussed at this time. I'm gonna leave it at "good times".

Face It

2007-02-11T23:45:00.000-05:00

Many places come with many faces. Here are some glamour shots of yours truely acting a fool in the field...

Ruins Pose
Mark snapped this shot on the ruins in Ollantaytambo, Peru. It would´ve been awesome, except I, apparently, am falling asleep.
Salty Dawg
We had spend the majority of the day cruising around the massive Salar de Uyuni -- the largest salt lake on the planet. It ruled. This was me overwhelmed with excitment (and salt) toward the end of the day.
So... Damn... Dry
This is somewhere in between Uyuni, Bolivia and San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. It was the third day in the desert and I felt like a raisin. One word: moisturizer.
Seriously. Enough Mountains, Already.
We had been driving in rough terrain all day looking at desert and sandy mountains. I'm not trying to be unappreciative, I'm just saying... where is the shower with hot water?Me: Acting Like an Idiot in Aguas Caliente, Peru.
Poor guy was out cold. Mark and I totally took advantage.

Quick Update & Key Purchases

2007-02-10T13:13:00.000-05:00

So, we made it through Salar de Uyuni and safely across the border to Chile. This afternoon we are getting on a bus (22 hours) from San Pedro de Atacama to Santiago. Provided we survive, Mendoza, Argentina, will be the next stop (Uyuni photos soon).

Important Purchase, #1
Math is hard, especially long division. So, I spent a whopping $1.60 in Oruro, Bolivia, and bought this beauty... and it works! It does all sorts of neat things like add and subtract and blink for no reason. I am *slightly* embarrassed to admit how often I use it, but I will say this much: it is a brilliant conversation piece. Go ahead, be jealous.

Important Purchase, #2
I was in need of some reading material for the trip (since I seem to have memorized the Frommers book already). In Cusco, we happened into a terrible bookstore and I found two terrible books to read. However, one of these books isn't as horrible as I thought it was going to be. It is insightful, articulate and fascinating. I am not going to tell you which one it is.

Photo Round-Up, #2

2007-02-06T11:33:00.000-05:00

LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

Flag Raising Ceremony

Murillo Plaza

San Francisco Church

Horn Section

When Bands Collide

Military March

MACHU PICCHU, PERU

View on the Train Back to Cusco

Me and the M-P

La Friggin' Paz, Part II

2007-02-06T11:09:00.000-05:00

The Black Market
I don't have photos of this for obvious reasons, although I did attempt to take a couple of shots. However, I was quickly yelled at and sort of chased down the hill. I'll just leave it at that.

Unfortunately, there were not any great deals at the Black Market in La Paz. I mean, I want a new 80GB iPod for like 100 bucks, but no such luck. Prices were maybe 10% less that what you'd pay in The States, plus, you have no idea where this stuff came from (well, that's not entirely true: everyone knows all the merchandise is smuggled in from Brasil and Chile).

Love a Brass Band... or Two
Despite the disappointment, while wandering around the area, I ran into a killer parade with not one, but TWO more marching bands! Turns out it was a huge festival and parade for the dancers and bands who are warming up for the massive Carnival celebration in Oruro, Bolivia, this coming weekend. This brings me to our current location...

Oh... Oh... Oruro
We hopped a bus yesterday afternoon from La Paz to Oruro (a measly 4 hours) and spent the night here. Today, we are hopping on a train to Uyuni at 3:30pm en route to the salt flats.

Too Many Words, Want More Pictures
Yeah, sorry about that. Connections ain't quite zippy and there hasn't been much time between trains, buses and llama rides. They're coming, though. In the meantime, here is a... uhh... map.

La Friggin' Paz, Part I

2007-02-03T09:37:00.000-05:00

It rules. I love it. Getting there, however...

We arrived in La Paz, Bolivia, on Friday (2/2) afternoon on an overnight bus from Cusco. During the boarding process, we notice that people were carrying blankets and wearing pants, sweaters and jackets. I was in jeans in a long-sleeve shirt; Mark was in light khakis and a teeshirt. Hmmm... context clues about the journey to come? Naaah.

I can honestly say I have never been closer to freezing to death in my entire life. For about eight hours I was surprised everytime I felt my heart beat. When the sun came up, I awoke, in amazement, not in the afterlife. We made it. Alive. And I am buying a blanket immediately.

We walked over the Peru-Bolivia border with no problems (though the scene was absolutely chaotic) and were dropped at the bus terminal in La Paz. Grumpy, hungry and thawed, we made it to the Prado -- the heart of La Paz. Our celebratory meal was at none other than Burger King. Score.

Minivan Madness
La Paz is noisy and disorderly and crazy. I completely loved it.

There are hundreds (well, a lot) of these insane minivans that are worthy of mention because they are converted into mini-buses that wildly drive around scooping people up. Whoever is at the sliding door yells the destinations as if they were possessed. Utterly bizarre.

Walkin' After Midnight
Just kidding, Mom-- I didn't walk around (much) after midnight. I did, however, discover that when walking around La Paz, crazy things happen.

On Sunday, I took a walk to Plaza Murillo, the historical square in the country's capital. I was filming the ongoings and appreciating the national landmarks when, out of nowhere, a huge brass marching banding comes tearing down the street. They are dressed in fantastic red military uniforms and playing with such gusto. It was an awesome site.

After an hour of pomp and circumstance, I come to find out that every Sunday morning they do a traditional flag-raising ceremony. It was quite a spectacle. Will post photos for this soon. Speaking of... the photos that you see now are:

- First one on the right is the eternal the street market in La Paz. You will find everything from fake Puma sneaks, to alpaca blankets to UNC Tarheel hats to designer dress shoes. It's like Chinatown, except 100 times bigger. No exaggeration.

- Second one to the left is a photo of San Francisco Square on the Santa Cruz street. Apparently, this street is a dividing line for the city: above Santa Cruz is where the Spanish influence and development begins; below is where the indigenous folks of Bolivia remain. We kept it real and stayed below Santa Cruz. You know, it's like 14th Street. :)

The M-Pizzle (a.k.a. Machu Picchu)

2007-02-02T12:37:00.000-05:00

Early Start
Tuesday, January 30
4:40am - Wake up.
5:10am - Eat breakfast.
5:21am - Race to bus station.
5:30am - Get on bus.
6:00am - Arrive at Machu Picchu.
6:30am - Go on guided tour of ruins.
7:00am - Clouds roll in; rain starts.
9:30am - Tour ends; eat breakfast (again).

Picture Perfect
Fun Facts About the Ruins
- Machu Picchu was erected and abandoned all within the same century.
- It took 40 years and 15,000 workers to build.
- About 700 people lived there.
- It was built with tax payers' money.
- Only the king had a toilet with running water.
- It was never found by the Spanish.

Wait For It...
The rain and clouds started at 7am, but that didn't deter us from climbing Wayan Picchu, the huge-ass mountain you always see in the background of Machu Picchu photos. It took about one hour to ascend and when I got to the top everything was covered in clouds. You couldn't see a thing. Cut to two hours later and... voila! The ruins appeared seemingly out of nowhere.

Gnomar and the Incas
He just can't resist a photo opp. And the poor little guy had to wait all day for the sun to come out and pose for this shot (It's ok, though. He was playing with the token llamas in the meantime). He can now add Machu Picchu to his already impressive list of world travels. Immediately after this photo, he went to party with Shannen Doherty.

Player Pose
This is Mark and my "Playah Pose" after climbing and descending Wayan Picchu (it's the one behind us). Go ahead -- say it. Bad. Ass. I was inspired and threw up some Incan gang signs.

In all honesty, it is hard to find words to describe the site. It's massive and exqusite and perfectly engineered. It is one of those things that you cannot absorb when you are actually looking at it because it is so impacting. It is simply hard to wrap your head around. Perhaps it will make more sense in a week.

Next stop on the tour is La Paz, Bolivia. Getting on a bus (14 hours) tonight and arriving there in the morning. Well, that is the plan, anyway...

The Jump Off

2007-01-31T13:03:00.000-05:00

We attempted this photo after walking around Machu Picchu all day in the rain, only to find the sun later that afternoon. We had been hiking up stairs and climbing mountains for eight straight hours. Our legs were like jello, but for some reason we thought it was a brilliant idea to put the camera on self-timer, set it on a rock and try to get a "jump" photo at the ruins. I can only hope you find the photos as hilarious as I do.

Go ahead -- cast your vote on the best shot.

Attempt #1

Attempt #2

Attempt #3

Attempt #4

Attempt #5

Attempt #6

Attempt #7

Attempt #8

Attempt #9

90210 in Aguas Caliente

2007-01-31T11:57:00.000-05:00

That's right, people. We found what Shannen Doherty has been up to on our way to Machu Picchu...

Hold Onto Your Pets

2007-01-29T22:10:00.000-05:00

Aguas Caliente, Monday, Jan. 29.
We arrived via train to Aguas Caliente today. It has pretty much rained since we got here. All I have to say is thank the Lord we decided against the 4-day Inca Trail trek. Next stop: Machu Picchu. Taking the bus early tomorrow morning up to the ruins. Awww, yeah.

Oh and this is what Mark ate for dinner. It´s guinea pig. I had the alpacha steak. Tasted like salty minute-steak.

Pisac and O'Town

2007-01-29T22:09:00.000-05:00

Ollantaytambo: My Very First Ruin, Sunday, Jan 28.
Sunday we hopped another local bus -- two, actually -- and made our way to a tounge-twister of a town called Ollantaytambo (affectionatly dubbed O'Town).

Ok, so the bus rides: Imagine the most crowded subway car you've been on, then multiply it by 10 and pretend it's half the size. It was like a little taste of home in the middle of the Andes... sort of.

O'Town, also in the Sacred Valley, is where Mark and I climbed our first ruin of the trip. That was at 7am this morning. It was cloudy and a bit rainy, but we were the only two up there and the view was completely amazing.

Pisac: Market Madness, Saturday, Jan 27.
Our first stop in the the Sacred Valley was Pisac, a fantastic little town know for its Sunday artisian market. I arrived on Saturday afternoon via local bus (cost $1.50). As we drove into the valley, it appeared as though we were driving through mountains of Hollywood set. The scenery in this town looked faked; it was unspeakably picturesque.

On Sunday, the entire city transformed into one gigantic market. Everything from chessboards to ponchos to flowers were sold. All of the colors, crafts and number of vendors was overwhelming. However, that didn´t stop me from picking up a few gifts: a llama doll, a stuffed animal made of alpaca fur and a couple pairs of earrings. Who will the lucky llama go to?!

Mancora - Lima - Cusco

2007-01-27T19:49:00.000-05:00

Cusco: I [heart] Cusco,
Friday, Jan. 26.
Cusco is by far my favorite place we have visited. It is lively and wild. The gateway to Machu Picchu, the city's arcitecture is a brilliant juxtaposition of Incan origin and Spanish influence. Even though it is the gateway to one of (if not the) most popular tourist destinations in all of South America, it manages to keep its local flair and way-of-life wonderfully intact.

Lima: Kthxbye!, Thursday, Jan. 25.
We were in Lima for all of two hours. This did not disappoint me. Lima in two words: hot, polluted. I'm sure it's really charming if you give it a chance, but I had been on a bus for the past 16 hours at which point nothing was captivating.

Mancora: Tasty, Wednesday, Jan. 24.
Our taste of Northern Peru beaches came in the form of a little town called Mancora. It is a sophisticated surf spot that has become fashionable among international sun ´n sand seekers (like myself ;). The people were cool, the beaches were nice and the cusine...

This was my lunch. It was like $4 at a place on the beach called Sirena's. Those are perfect pillars of mashed potatoes with fresh tuna inside, fried shrimp on top and special sauce surrounding it all. Dee. Lish.

Whereabouts and the World's Smallest Bananas

2007-01-25T18:31:00.000-05:00

From Mancora, we took a 16-hour bus to Lima. Got to Lima in around 11am and went straight to the airport. By 1:35pm, we were on a flight headed to Cusco. Shazaam!

Currently, we're getting acquainted with Cusco and tomorrow we're off to the Sacred Valley, then Machu Picchu. Somewhere in between Tumbes and here, Mark found the world's smallest bananas.

Man vs. Mosquito

2007-01-23T12:35:00.000-05:00

This happened about a week ago and it´s taken me that long to stop laughing and actually write about it.

During our stay on the beach in Montañita, the mosquitos were vicious. Their stealth tactics ruined two consecutive nights of sleep. On the third night, we decided to fight back.

MacGyver Mark rigged up the most complex mosquito netting (I have it all on film) for his bed. He is an Eagle Scout, you know. I did the best I could with my Swiss Army knife and tape. We staged a full-on crusade against the bugs.

The battle was on.
The lights went off.
And this is what I woke up to the next morning.

Aside from the swollen eyelid, note the crusty calamine lotion on his right bicep, left shoulder and the side of his head.

I tried for about three full minutes not to laugh. Silently sitting on my bed. Shaking. Stifling gasps for air. Mark caught one of my muffled noises, looked at me and gave me a little smile.

I. Lost. It.

For the next 20 minutes, I was CRYING. Tears were streaming down my face.

This will go down as one of the funniest moments in my entire life.

[Cracking up in the computer lab right now.]

p.s. New pix posted for By the Hour: CONFIRMED.

No Jungle, More Beaches!

2007-01-21T19:39:00.001-05:00

It wasn't until we got to Guayaquil that we realized getting to the jungle in Northern Peru wasn't easy... or cheap.

Reality Check
After spending a day researching and inquiring at travel agencies, we tossed in the towel for getting to the Amazon. It would've required a flight from Guayaquil down to Lima, then up to Iquitos. Then afterwards, another flight from Iquitos to Lima to Cusco for us to continue on the planned itinerary. The flights would´ve cost around $500, plus another $900 for the jungle tour, plus who knows how many mosquito bites*.

After getting this reality check, Mark said, "For that much, we might as well go to the Galapagos." [Cut to the both of us racing to the nearest Galapagos tour agency. We found a good last-minute deal, but it wasn't leaving for another week.]

Plan B: Explore Northern Peru Beaches
Damn, straight! One bus from Guayaquil over the border to Tumbes, Peru, and then another little mini-bus to the small surf-town of Mancora and here we are.

It´s a neat little town, fewer hippies (see image to right) than Montañita and better waves (at the moment). Best part: Our room has hot water -- REAL hot water without wires protruding from the wall. I took my first non-torturous shower in seven days. Pure delight.

*Story coming soon!